Chef Oren Assido Turns Amaya in Rehovot into a Culinary Success
Chef Oren Assido successfully revitalizes Amaya in Rehovot as a top-tier kosher dairy fish restaurant, overcoming unfair social media backlash with exceptional cuisine.
Chef Oren Assido never imagined he would get that phone call. Just two months after taking over the kitchen at Amaya in Rehovot, the owner rang to ask whom he had managed to feud with, as the restaurant's Google rating was in a sudden, alarming freefall. Assido, one of the humblest and hardest-working chefs in the industry, preferred the painstaking grind of the kitchen and chatting with diners over media storms. Yet the review score kept plummeting.
It turned out that outraged Twitter users had mistakenly attributed remarks made by chef Meir Adoni—Assido's former employer—to Amaya, sparking a campaign for revenge. The restaurant, which never had any connection to Adoni, was dragged into an angry thread calling to harm his business. In an era where facts rarely matter on social media, the boycotts and insults quickly followed, severely damaging the restaurant's reputation.
Assido found himself dragged into a political tug-of-war against his will. He was forced to publish a clarification video explaining that Amaya had nothing to do with the chef who ignited the controversy. Thanks to supportive diners who rushed to help, the rating steadily climbed back up. But this exhausting, pointless drama entirely missed the point about Amaya under Assido: what truly matters is not the review score, but how remarkably delicious the food is.
A Stunning Space and Comforting Beginnings
Amaya initially opened under another young chef, receiving positive reviews that unfortunately did not last. Assido, whose Tel Aviv-based restaurant Olea failed to reopen after October 7, was called in to fill the void. He assembled a new team and revamped the menu, marking his first foray into kosher dairy cuisine with a strong emphasis on fish. Under his leadership, the restaurant recently expanded its hours to include lunch service.
In stark contrast to the under-renovation building it hides within near a bus stop, Amaya is visually breathtaking. An enormous white bar dominates the space, with dozens of vinyl records neatly mounted on the walls alongside large marble tables. Everything is meticulously designed, creating instant high expectations.
We kicked off the meal with the Berber bread (42 NIS), a sourdough flatbread infused with mashed potatoes. It was a warm, unique pastry with a rich, buttery, comforting bite. The stellar bread was accompanied by a mildly piquant matbucha jam and whipped Tanzania butter, which tasted like a delightful miniature dessert featuring dried fruits and toasted nuts.
Standout Plates and Bold Flavors
Following the waiter's recommendation, we also ordered a raw fish dish that proved relatively standard: raw tuna over leche de tigre (92 NIS) with red chili, finger lime, and shatta oil. While the fish was fresh and properly cut, the real thunder was stolen by the dishes that followed.
First and foremost was the roasted and smoked cabbage (67 NIS) served with lemon chimichurri, shanklish cheese, and olive oil. This dish exploded with intense flavors and aromas, lingering long after the meal concluded. Anyone who loves smoky notes will fall entirely in love with this preparation, where a humble vegetable rivals any luxury ingredient.
Another fantastic starter was the fish wing (59 NIS) coated in a spicy glaze of smoked Tabasco, chives, and lemon. Crispy, sticky, and finger-licking good, it offered an addictive heat that left us wanting more.
Hitting a Note Worth Refining
Moving on to mains, our attentive server urged us not to miss the Moroccan ramen (137 NIS), one of the house signatures. Visually, it is a smart, intriguing, and gorgeous dish nodding to Japanese ramen through a distinct Mediterranean lens. Unfortunately, in practice, it was the only dish that left us disappointed.
The bowl featured house-made angel hair pasta, shredded fish, fish broth, and harissa. Sadly, the harissa completely overwhelmed the dish, drowning out the delicate fish and losing the subtlety of the broth. While the ambition was clear, the execution would benefit from a lighter hand.
Our next main course was vastly superior: charcoal-roasted fish fillet (157 NIS) served with lima bean cream, roasted baladi zucchini, Swiss chard, and ouzo butter. Every component shone, especially the juicy zucchini complemented by the ouzo butter. The velvety lima bean cream served as an original substitute for standard mashed potatoes, showcasing Assido's true culinary identity.
A Masterclass in Desserts
Dessert proved to be a triumph. The milk and shiva cream dessert (57 NIS) with coriander seed ice cream, yogurt crumble, and sumac meringue was an absolute masterpiece of elegance. The coriander seed ice cream was a stroke of genius, offering sophisticated herbaceous notes balanced by zesty crunch.
Assido has taken on a serious challenge at Amaya, transforming an existing restaurant under tight constraints. He does so with admirable maturity and a complete lack of ego. Ultimately, Assido has turned Amaya into one of the finest kosher upscale restaurants operating in Israel today.
