The fish is good, but the soul is missing: 'Ha-Shachaf' restaurant tries to bring back the fish joints of the past
The 'Ha-Shachaf' restaurant in Tel Aviv attempts to recreate the atmosphere of legendary fish joints from the past. Despite high-quality dishes, the effort to capture the old-school spirit feels like a mere imitation.
The 'Ha-Shachaf' restaurant opened a year ago at the eastern entrance to HaMesila Park, which has recently become one of the busiest tourist hubs in Tel Aviv. From afar, it seems the restaurant is trying to restore the former glory of classic fish joints like 'Barbunia' or 'Shtupak'. In those golden days, diners would order a fish dish at a fair price and receive a complimentary set of salads and rolls, often refilled at no extra charge.
Over time, tastes have shifted toward ceviche and sashimi, options that 'Ha-Shachaf' also offers. The interior, unlike the outdoor area, looks like a copy of the legendary 'Barbunia' bar on Ben Yehuda Street, complete with wood-paneled walls, staff photos on the shelves, and loud Israeli music. Yet, that is where the resemblance ends. The atmosphere feels 'plastic,' and recreating the unique spirit of the original 'Barbunia,' once run by the legendary Ezra Marmelstein, is simply impossible.
We started with standard eggplant salad, tzatziki, and ikra, which, unlike the old-school format, are not included in the price of the expensive main dishes. We then ordered fried calamari, a sea bream skewer, and whiting. The calamari was 'comme il faut'—not too soft, not chewy, and served with two types of aioli. The sea bream skewer, featuring green onions and tomato quarters, was excellent: charred on the outside yet juicy. The whiting was also well-prepared. In general, the cooking timing was spot on.
We accompanied the meal with a bottle of Ouzo 12. Near the end, we asked for an extra slice of bread to finish our salads. When I saw the bartender type the request into the terminal, I knew what was coming. A few minutes later, a full portion of bread arrived, and we were charged 15 shekels for it. At 'Barbunia,' no one would have dreamed of charging for an extra roll. It sounds like nonsense, but it disappointed me as a sign of the times. Despite this, the place is cute, and the attempt to create a restaurant 'like in the past' is worthy of appreciation, even if it is a bit 'as if.'
'Ha-Shachaf', 22 Herzl, Tel Aviv. Before the tip: tzatziki 18 shekels, eggplant salad 19, ikra 28, sea bream skewer 78, calamari 92, whiting 98, small bottle of Ouzo 200 ml 118, bread 15.
