New Direction at Tel Aviv's Pastel Restaurant: Review and Culinary Outlook

Pastel restaurant has long relied on its prime location near the Tel Aviv Museum of Art and the Cameri Theater, coupled with elegant design and professional service. However, over its 13-year history, the kitchen has seen multiple chefs, from Tibor Barra to Hallel Twakuli, and most recently Gal Ben Mosh, whose Michelin-aspirational tenure ended last June. Young chef Teddy Kagan has now taken over, adjusting the menu while keeping several signature dishes.

Dining on the terrace at dusk, the service immediately stood out as exceptional, featuring knowledgeable recommendations for local wine from Yaacov Oryah. The meal began with fresh breads, colorful spicy spreads, and a standout crustade filled with smoked beets, green apple, blueberries, and horseradish foam, offering a balanced interplay of textures.

Salads proved to be a high point, particularly a masterclass panzanella featuring burrata over a vibrant cherry tomato gazpacho, local bread chunks, and kalamata olives for 94 shekels. Meanwhile, the signature carrot soup remained a comforting classic, rich with coconut chutney and carrot chips, even coming with the recipe printed on a postcard for inquiring guests.

Other dishes showed mixed execution. While a tender octopus skewer with campfire potato and tzatziki delivered excellent flavors, a lamb pelmeni dish suffered from thick, coarse dough, and a costly 186-shekel wild grouper special was overpowered by a heavy, milky sauce. Desserts, including a tiramisu, coconut panna cotta, and cold cheesecake, looked immaculate but tasted overly sweet or gelatinous.

Ultimately, Pastel does not need Michelin-level pretension to succeed in its iconic cultural spot. By focusing on classic, well-executed dishes that have stood the test of time rather than overcomplicated recipes, Chef Kagan has a solid foundation to stabilize the restaurant and delight diners seeking a refined evening out.