Overnight for 55 shekels: "I was lucky to reach one of the most special and affordable places"

There are destinations in Thailand that most Israelis know: the capital Bangkok, the islands of Koh Phangan and Koh Samui. White beaches, markets, parties, massages, and papaya salad. In the north, there are Chiang Mai and Pai, and usually, these are the areas where the tourists "end". Idan Gigi, 29, set out for the Isan region in northeastern Thailand, equipped with an adventure motorcycle (CB500) and a Fujifilm camera, and set two rules for himself: not to book accommodation in advance and to be flexible with the route.

"There were days when I drove for hours and didn't see even one tourist. Mobile reception was a privilege," he says. "It was the first thing that started to change my picture of Thailand, because when you go off the beaten path, this country starts to look different: much bigger, much more complex, and in my opinion, also much more interesting. What we know is nothing compared to the rich culture and endless landscapes that this country has to offer."

The less touristy area of Thailand

The Isan region is the northeastern area of Thailand, consisting of 20 provinces and having about 22 million residents. It is very authentic, less touristy, and also the poorest region. Many of the foreign agricultural workers in Israel come from this region. "The road to Isan doesn't come with a big sign announcing that you have entered a different Thailand," says Idan. "There is no border, no gate, and no one moment when the landscape changes all at once; it happens slowly. The roads become emptier, wooden shacks start to pop up on the side of the road, rice fields start to take over the horizon, and the big cities disappear completely. Instead of hotels, restaurants for tourists, and travel agencies, small villages, local gas stations, and stalls on the side of the road start to appear."

"I arrived in Buriram, which can be seen as a kind of gateway to the Isan region. The road was exactly what I was looking for: long roads, open landscapes, local food, historical sites, and even a few rainstorms that reminded me that I was still in Thailand. At the border with Cambodia, one could still feel the tension due to the situation between the two countries. With several military checkpoints and blocked roads, I had to find alternative ways to continue and climb north."

On the edge of the mountain - the glowing temple

The next day, Idan arrived in areas that look as if they were left behind in time, from Buriram towards Ubon Ratchathani. "Dilapidated houses for farmers who walk barefoot in the fields. In Ubon, I arrived at one of the most special temples in the country, the glowing temple - Sorn Kaew temple in Phetchabun. A completely surreal place located on the edge of a mountain with paintings in glowing colors all over the temple. The glowing colors are phosphorescent pigments that absorb light during the day and glow in the dark."

"As a photographer, there is something addictive about such journeys. You never really know where you will find the next frame. You can drive for an hour without taking the camera out of the bag, and then for an hour stop at least 10 times. The Thais must not have understood why I fell on them: out of nowhere, a foreign tourist arrives with a big motorcycle and a camera and asks for permission to take a picture. What is certain is that a small smile always solved everything."

To the river: riding alongside the monstrous Mekong

"After a few days, I arrived in Mukdahan, and here the journey started to take on a different character; from riding alongside Cambodia, I started to climb along the Mekong."

The Mekong River is one of the longest and most important rivers in Asia. It flows for about 4,900 km and is a major lifeline for tens of millions of people in Southeast Asia. The river originates in the Tibetan Plateau in China and flows south through six countries: China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam. "The huge river that separates Thailand and Laos became my guiding line. For days I rode alongside it, with Thailand on one side and Laos on the other, agricultural fields, small villages, Buddhist temples, and roads stretching along the river — a paradise for motorcyclists, I must note."

"From time to time I stopped, took off my helmet, and looked across the water. A few dozen meters away was already another country. As I progressed north, I realized that the Mekong is much more than a crazy and extreme landscape. It is a way of life here. People work next to it, fishermen go out to it, children grow up next to it, entire villages are built around it, and local agriculture relies to a large extent on the land around it."

"When I answered that I was from Israel, I received smiles again and again"

"Almost everywhere they asked me where I was from. When I answered that I was from Israel, I received smiles again and again, curiosity, and sometimes a short conversation that developed despite the language gaps; they even asked me if I was a soldier in the IDF, I nodded politely. There were people who offered me food and drink for free, others recommended places along the way, and in some cases even helped me with the motorcycle without asking for anything in return."

"I continued through the provinces of Bueng Kan and Nong Khai, with the Mekong continuing to appear and disappear beside me. It was an anchor for me, even without a navigation device, to continue and climb north. After a few such days, I arrived in Chiang Khan, a small and charming town that sits right on the Mekong. Very quickly I realized that I was not continuing further that day, that I needed to stop because I had the privilege of reaching one of the most special places in Thailand."

Chiang Khan and the hospitality at Sally's family hotel

"If I could choose the highlight of this journey, I would probably choose Chiang Khan and Sally. Chiang Khan is a picturesque and quiet town in the northeast of Isan, located on the banks of the Mekong River, right opposite the Laos border. It is considered one of the most authentic and romantic destinations in the country and has almost not been affected by noisy mass tourism, but has maintained its traditional and calm character. The town is very popular, mainly among local tourists from Thailand who are looking for a calm escape from the big cities, and it offers a slow and unique pace of life," says Idan.

In the heart of the town, you will find a bustling street - the historic wooden street that runs parallel to the Mekong River and is characterized by traditional two-story wooden houses. Most of them have been converted into small boutique hotels, cafes, galleries, and handmade shops. "Of course, Thailand being Thailand, every evening the main street is closed to vehicle traffic and becomes a huge night market. The market sells local street foods unique to the north, and also, of course, the street foods we all know and love (there is also mango sticky rice), handmade souvenirs, and traditional textiles. Another thing I really liked, and this is true for many areas in Thailand, is that every morning at sunrise, Buddhist monks walk the streets of the town and the locals give them offerings of rice and fruit - an ancient custom that preserves the spiritual and communal atmosphere of the place."

"Three additional things that should not be missed in Chiang Khan are, of course, sunsets on the Mekong with a long promenade with spectacular views of the Laos hills, and you can go for a cruise in small wooden boats on the river during sunset. The Phu Thok viewpoint, a nearby hill from which you can watch early in the morning a 'sea of clouds' covering the river and the valley, and the famous glass bridge that is located nearby and offers a walk above the river."

94-year-old Sally's hotel

When he arrived in the town, of course without any accommodation he had booked in advance, he happened to arrive at the family hotel of Sally White, a 94-year-old Thai woman who was married to an American citizen and returned to live in Chiang Khan 30 years ago. She manages the family hotel together with her daughter. "I haven't had such hospitality in Thailand yet. A small hotel built on three levels and, above all, an authentic and warm family atmosphere." Cost of accommodation per night: about 55 shekels.

Isan cuisine: only for spicy lovers

Papaya salad (Som Tum) and other salads cost 5-6 shekels per portion here, a whole roasted chicken will cost 18-22 shekels, and other dishes in the restaurant: 7-8 shekels. "Isan cuisine is considered one of the most influential, intense, and beloved culinary styles in the country. Unlike the central cuisine of Bangkok, Isan cuisine uses less coconut milk or refined sugar, and their place is taken by intense flavors of spiciness, sourness, saltiness, and fresh herbs. There is sticky rice on the table; sticky rice is the undisputed carbohydrate of Isan. Unlike steamed jasmine rice, sticky rice is served in woven baskets and eaten with the hands; you pinch a small lump, make a ball out of it, and dip it in the sauce or with the meat," says Idan.

"The food will always be very seasoned with heavy use of hot chili peppers, lime juice, garlic, shallots, cilantro, mint, and Pla Ra - fermented fish that gives a strong and salty umami depth. There is no day that I didn't eat the famous Som Tum salad. The national dish of the region. Green papaya cut into strips, crushed in a mortar and pestle with chili, garlic, tomatoes, green beans, lime, fish sauce, and peanuts. Joining the cold strip is also Laab, a chopped meat salad seasoned with lime juice, fish sauce, dried chili, mint, shallots, and sticky rice, an amazing dish. Gai Yang, my absolute favorite. A whole roasted chicken in a mixture of cilantro roots, garlic, black pepper, and fish sauce, stretched on bamboo sticks and roasted slowly over coals. Served almost always alongside sticky rice and papaya salad. Today, Isan food is popular all over Thailand and, in truth, all over the world, but the most intense and original flavors have been preserved in the villages and towns of the region itself."

"The food is, of course, just the tip of the iceberg, and the more I travel the world, the more I discover how little we really know it. And Thailand? After thousands of kilometers on two wheels, I already know for sure - what I thought I knew about it is only the tip of the iceberg."